2007 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

The 2007 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, which was tasted from a magnum directly from their cellars, has a beautiful bouquet with red plum, blueberry and an intriguing subtle vein of wild mint. This is a complex bouquet with hint of black tea and bay leaf surfacing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, very harmonious and focused, demonstrating more grace and precision than the 2007 Volnay Champan tasted alongside. Then on the finish there is a cheeky touch of sour cherry that seems to cleanse the palate and urges you to take another sip.

Mid ruby. Delicate and peppery on the nose with a sort of biscuity sweetness that is probably the oak influence. Refined and very silky but still with some red fruits in the mix. Drink 2016-2025.

Good full red. Sexy, complex but withdrawn nose offers an exhilarating sappy quality and an element of crushed stone. The most intense of these 2007s on the palate, with an enticing sweetness leavened by firm spine. The sappy cherry and soil flavors really vibrate in the mouth and on the very long and rather powerfully structured finish. Complex and complete.

Harvested 5-8th September. A very accessible Ducs. Much lighter and less dense than the 2010 or 2009, but also much more approachable. Guillaume d'Angerville calls it "tender." I call it useful - a wine to drink while waiting for the '05 and the '99 to come around. The Ducs minerality is here, along with enough fruit to keep it going for another five to ten years.