2012 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville Magnum

(a monopole that measures 2.15 ha; the 2012 was bottled exclusively in magnum format - 1281 were produced). The timid nose requires aggressively swirling to coax the black cherry, violet, plum, Asian-style tea and spice aromas to reveal themselves. In typical fashion this is notably finer than the Champans with an abundance of almost pungent minerality to the highly energetic and appealingly fresh middle weight flavors that possess excellent length on the overtly austere and restrained finish. Despite the excellent concentration and focused power this remains a wine of refinement and grace that is classic Clos des Ducs in character. Like the Taillepieds in 2012 there is a hint of warmth but there is so much going on here that I don't believe it will matter in the long run. Note that this brilliant effort will need a very long time to come together and in magnum format I'm not entirely certain that even 20 years of age will be sufficient to see this at its complete apogee.

The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs offers possibly the most intriguing bouquet this year. It certainly has the most complexity with nuanced dark cherry, cranberry leaf, raspberry and cold stone scents that initially seem a little austere but open nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins. The oak is a little more conspicuous at this moment, although that will be subsumed with time. The finish is composed and contains an attractive white pepper, almost white fennel-like note that is sustained throughout the aftertaste. Very fine. Drink 2016-2030.

(production here was just 9.5 hectoliters per hectare, according to Duvivier): Healthy dark red. Deep, soil-driven aromas of black cherry, mocha, coffee and truffley underbrush are lifted by a subtle floral topnote. Intensely flavored and creamy, but with a firm spine of minerality giving the wine grip and keeping it light on its feet. This wonderfully sweet Volnay has buns of steel. Finishes with uncanny length and lift. This potentially great wine was bottled mostly in numbered magnums and should be a real collector's item, not to mention very long-lived. - Stephen Tanzer