2014 Corton Le Clos du Roi Grand Cru La Vougeraie

The Vougeraie parcel of Clos du Roi runs to 0.5 hectares of 60-year-old vines and sees 50% whole bunches. Chalky and even a little austere, it's focused and taut with grainy tannins, subtle oak and good underlying texture. A textbook Corton. 2019-28 .

A discreet application of wood easily allows the fresh, earthy, herbal tea and sauvage-scented nose of red and dark pinot fruit to shine. As one would expect the big-bodied flavors possess plenty of size, weight and punch along with solid power and mid- palate concentration that adds to the appeal of the beautifully long and mouth coating finish. This is not particularly complex at present but there is so much development potential in evidence that much more should appear with time in bottle and my rating assumes that it will.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru from Vougeraie clearly has some stem addition on the nose but it works well: the fruit seems ripe and it does not obscure the terroir. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, sour cherry and strawberry with a fine line of acidity threaded through from start to finish, lending focus and harmony. Still a baby, give this 2-3 more years before broaching. Tasted September 2017. 2020 - 2032.

Medium red. Sexy aromas of red cherry and truffley underbrush, plus a hint of marzipan. At once intense and suave, conveying a saline quality to its red fruit and spice flavors. The texture here is essentially pliant and edge-free but this subtle grand cru will need time to resolve its dusty tannins.